With its sidewalk cafes, cobblestone lanes, and French language filling the streets, you’d think you were in Paris. Québec City holds a certain European charm that you seldom find outside of the continent, yet, there’s something distinctly North American about it that gives this city such a unique feel. Deemed a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985, Québec City is home to the only walled city north of Mexico and boasts 400 years of history, making it one of the oldest cities in North America.
I’m not sure why it took me so long, but I finally made it to North America’s little slice of Europe and I’m so excited to share all of my recommendations with you! Before you continue reading, it’s important to understand that a weekend in Québec City is simply not enough time. There is so much to do, see, eat, and experience in Québec City that you’re going to wish you could stay longer, I promise. But if a weekend is all you have like I did, then read on to find out the details you’ll need to plan a trip that you’ll never forget!
[WHAT TO DO IN QUÉBEC CITY]
Wander the historic streets of Old Québec/Vieux-Québec
As you may know, wandering by foot is by far my favorite way to get to know any new city, and that was no exception for my visit to Québec City. In fact, I spent close to 7 hours just meandering the numerous neighborhoods! If that doesn’t tell you how walkable this city is, I just don’t know what will.
While you wander, make sure to take in all the breathtaking architecture found throughout the Old City like the stone facade of the Cathedral-Basilica of Notre-Dame de Québec. It is said to be the oldest Roman Catholic parish in the Americas north of the Spanish colonies in Florida and New Mexico.
Just around the corner from there is Auberge Du Tresor, a quaint inn and restaurant donning an iconic red roof. Not only is this a popular spot to grab an al fresco meal, but it’s also an excellent place for good old-fashioned people watching! Adjacent to the Auberge Du Tresor is Rue Du Tresor, a charming alleyway displaying all sorts of art for perusing and purchase. If you’re lucky, you may even see an artist in action!
Although there are certain “hot spots” you should attempt to see while you wander, my best advice is to just give yourself an afternoon to explore without any specific plans. You’re bound to stumble upon more glorious architecture than you can keep track of!
Take a Saint-Roch Food Tour with Local Québec City Food Tours
It would be a crime to visit this foodie’s paradise without going on a food tour. Thanks to Québec City Tourism and the Women In Travel Summit I had the opportunity to go on the Saint Roch Québec Food Tour with Local Québec City Food Tours. Their mission is to provide off-the-beaten-path culinary experiences and introduce local favorites to travelers and visitors that would otherwise go unnoticed! The tour is 3 hours long and includes 6 stops with 12 different tastings of food & drink which is enough to equal a very satisfying lunch. A local guide (ours was Emilie and she was EXCELLENT) will take you through the hip culinary scene of the recently revitalized neighborhood of Saint Roch (pronounced like rock), and fill you in on lots of history and fun facts along the way. I’m not sure I would have ventured over to Saint-Roch if I hadn’t been on this food tour, and I’m so beyond happy that I did! Here’s a little preview of what you can expect when you go on the Saint Roch Quebec Food Tour.
Fromagerie Des Grondines:
On our first stop, Emily took us to a local cheese shop where we indulged in local cheese and meats as well as a delicious fermented fruit juice made from a Canadian berry.
Oh, and did I mention I had the most insane grilled cheese my life here? Yes, there’s that too.
Ness:
Our second stop was to a vegetarian/vegan restaurant owned by a couple that taste tests their food on their kids – and new items only make it on the menu if the kids approve it!
Their claim to fame happened a few years back when the Rolling Stones were in town and were in search of a vegan restaurant to eat at for the duration of their stay. Apparently, they fell in love with the raw avocado-lime pie, and I can see why!
Noctem:
Third on the list was a stop at Noctem, a local brewery with a cat-decor theme! We sampled a delicious brew and tasted their yummy house ceviche. These guys pride themselves on creating artisanal beer and providing unique cuisine made with locally sourced ingredients and it shows!
Camellia Sinensis Maison De Thé:
Next up was a stop at a cute tea house offering tea from all over the world. We tried a tea sourced from a wild-growing plant only found in the woods of Canada. Looks like you don’t have to go all the way to Asia for good tea after all!
Chez Ashton:
If you’ve never had poutine, I suggest booking your bus/plane/train to Québec City RIGHT AWAY! Eating poutine in Canada is a right of passage, and although you can find good poutine all over Québec, the best place to get inexpensive yet mouthwatering poutine is undoubtedly Chez Ashton.
It’s made with fresh local cheese every single day, and the best part: they’re open 24 hours so it doesn’t matter when the poutine craving hits – they can provide!
Champagne Chocolatier:
Our last stop was at a handmade chocolate shop which was the perfect way to conclude this unique and very eclectic food tour.
Sample the local flavors at Marché du Vieux-Port de Québec
Marché du Vieux-Port is an indoor market located near the train station as well as the port where all the cruise ships dock.
Here is where you will find countless local vendors selling everything from artisan cheese and freshly baked pastries to wild-caught fish and maple syrup. Although it was a little slow with not many vendors during my visit (as it was still early in the season), I assume that by June this market is packed with vendors selling fresh fruits and vegetables!
This is the perfect place to sample the local flavors of Québec and also to pick up some specialty gifts and maple syrup to bring back for your friends and family.
Admire the Château Frontenac from every angle
Did you know that the Château Frontenac is the most photographed hotel in the entire world? I’m not a bit surprised by that statistic after laying my eyes on this fairytale castle. 😍
The Château Frontenac was originally built by the Canadian railway companies back in the early 18th century, and by 1893 the hotel first began accepting guests. It has since grown to become the symbol of Québec City. You will even find this iconic structure on postage stamps!
The castle is perched atop Cape Diamond overlooking the St. Lawrence River and is by far the most prominent feature of the Québec Skyline.
Once you’ve admired the exterior of the Château Frontenac from every angle, make sure you head inside in order to see the gorgeous interior! Visitors are free to enter the lobby where historical artifacts dating back 400 years are on displayed in cases for all to see. To learn more, you can also book a guided tour.
Enjoy the views of the St. Lawrence River from Dufferin Terrace
Wrapping around the Château Frontenac is Dufferin Terrace, a boardwalk open to the public that offers uninterrupted views of the St. Lawrence River and the city of Lévis across the way.
Here visitors can relax on a bench or gather around the Samuel-De Champlain monument and enjoy the beautiful views and music from the occasional street buskers. From here you can also catch a ride on the funicular which links the upper town to the lower town.
On this ride, you’ll see sites such as the ancient Notre Dame des Victoires church, the historic Quartier Petit Champlain district, the port, and the Musée de la Civilisation.
View some local street art under the highway underpass (not as sketchy as it sounds, I swear)
You know I can’t go to a new place and NOT go out of my way to find street art! While on the Saint-Roch Food Tour our guide pointed out the underpass graffiti while driving by, and I knew I need to go back on foot to check it out in person.
Apparently, this is the only place for legal graffiti in Québec City, so here is where the artists come to create!
The underpass I speak of is located in between Rue Saint-Vallier Est and Rue Saint-Paul, but to make it easier you can check it out on the map below. It’s pretty much underneath the highway that divides Vieux-Québec from Saint Roch.
Although I don’t know much about the significance of these works or who they are by, I most certainly enjoyed taking a stroll around and checking it all out.
It may seem a little sketchy, as it’s quite literally located in the shadows underneath the highway, but I felt totally safe! As always, be aware of your surroundings whenever traveling solo.
Stroll the charming streets of Quartier Petit Champlain & Vieux-Port/Old Port
After you’ve wandered the streets of Old Québec, head down the massive staircase towards the lower town where you’ll find picture-perfect Quartier Petit Champlain. This waterfront neighborhood is home to some of the oldest streets in North America, which are now lined with boutiques, bistros and specialty shops that make for a perfect afternoon of shopping.
One place I found particularly interesting was Le Lapin Sauté, a restaurant dedicated almost entirely to rabbit-centric dishes.
After you make your way down the quaint cobblestone streets, you will come to a massive piece of street art covering the entire side of a building. This piece is called Fresque du Petit-Champlain which depicts the history of this once working-class neighborhood.
Vieux-Port/Old Port is just a little further down the hill and is another neighborhood that exudes European charm. As mentioned earlier, the Old Port is where the farmer’s market is located, so make sure to stop by when checking out this neighborhood!
Expect to find dozens of art galleries, antique shops, and specialty boutiques lining the streets of Vieux-Port. To me, this neighborhood had a more local feel to it, with residents riding their bikes, jogging, and walking their dogs in contrast with the tourist-filled streets of Old Québec. Not that I’m knocking Old Québec, it’s amazing, I just really enjoyed the local feel here.
Similar to the fresco found in Quartier Petit Champlain, there is another located in this neighborhood called Fresque des Québécois. This mural illustrates the rich history of the city dating back to its beginnings through the present. The artwork is so massive that it covers the entire side of a building and is 1,400 square feet!
[WHERE TO EAT IN QUÉBEC CITY]
For a unique atmosphere and a celebration of local ingredients: Rioux & Pettigrew
From exposed brick on the walls to reclaimed barn wood lining the floor to Rodriguez’s “Chasing Sugarman” playing from an old school record player, this restaurant was simply oozing in rustic sophistication and all-around coolness. They even make their own house beer! In addition to their local beer selection, they have cultivated quite an inventive menu, using local ingredients from the Québec region. I went for the Formaggio Fresco, a vegetarian dish featuring arancini made with Québec cheese, beet puree, arugula, roasted pecans, diced beets, and beet chips in a honey vinaigrette. (OMY = OH MY YUM) I’d say this is the perfect spot if you’re looking for some midrange, local cuisine with an uber-hip ambiance.
For a killer breakfast located in an old maritime warehouse: Chez Muffy
I had the pleasure of eating at Chez Muffy two mornings in a row as part of my stay with Auberge Saint Antoine, and both meals were excellent. On the first day, I went for the eggwhite omelet with arugula, tomatoes, fresh thickly sliced parmesan, multi-grain toast, and a vitamin-packed green juice.
The next day I opted to try out their buffet style breakfast which included all sorts of pastries, pancakes and french toast with Canadian maple syrup and so much more. The Chez Muffy team also prides themselves on sourcing ingredients from local farms whenever possible. (For more about my experience at Chez Muffy, be sure to scroll down to the “Where to Stay in Quebec City” section where I go a little more in detail.)
For the best crepes in town: Le Billig
Growing up in a French-Canadian family, I was accustomed to gobbling up my Memere’s homemade crepes every weekend (or whenever I would beg her to make them). So I was very excited to come across Le Billig, a neighborhood favorite specializing in sweet & savory crêpes. For under $5 I indulged in a delectable classic crepe with maple syrup that rivaled my Memere’s – so that’s saying something. Make sure to stop by this creperie while wandering the St-Jean Baptiste neighborhood!
For knock-your-socks-off handmade pasta: Bello Ristorante
I know it sounds a little strange to be getting Italian food in a place that is heavily influenced by French traditions, but my Italian heart can’t say no to fresh pasta. Many would say this is by far the best Italian cuisine in town – and based on my meal – I would say they were right. I went for the Mushroom Tagliatelle with truffle oil and thick slices of parmesan and it really was incredible.
For in-house roasted coffee and fresh baked goods: Cantook
Located in the hipster neighborhood of St-Jean-Baptiste, Cantook is a locally owned cafe known for roasting their beans on-site! The intoxicating aromas take over as soon as you walk into this cozy coffee shop and stay with you even after you leave!
Additional outdoor seating allows patrons to enjoy a house-roasted beverage when the weather allows, though I enjoyed sitting inside to listen to the faint humming of the roaster out back!
[WHERE TO ENJOY NIGHTLIFE IN QUÉBEC CITY]
For craft cocktails in a unique setting: Bar Artefact
I don’t know about you, but when I hear the words “hotel lobby bar” I don’t particularly imagine an establishment that emanates sophistication. Well, I can honestly say that Bar Artefact shattered all preconceived notions about a hotel lobby bar.
Located in the lobby of museum-hotel Auberge Saint-Antoine, Bar Artefact offers the unique opportunity to sip on a hand-crafted cocktail while surrounded by history from the 17th century! If you’re a tad confused by what I mean, skip down to the “Where to Stay in Québec City” section, where I explain more about the Auberge Saint-Antoine and its fascinating history. Additionally, each Thursday and Saturday night Bar Artefact hosts live music like jazz, folk or soul from 7-10 pm and admission is free.
For a night out dancing where the locals go: Le Sacrilège
You know the saying when in Rome, do as the Romans do? Well, when in Québec City, head out for a night of fun at Le Sacrilège. Located in St-Jean-Baptiste, this neighborhood bar is a local institution and is loved by its super-hip residents.
By night this place was packed with people dancing to 90s hits while drinking a selection of local beers at an affordable price. By day (yes, I went back to take some photos!), it’s a relaxing local watering hole where patrons sip on craft beers while reading the paper out on the covered courtyard.
Some of my favorite details of this bar included the church pews used as seating, the hanging plants throughout the bar, and the airy greenhouse style construction.
For sidewalk seating and a low-key atmosphere: L’Atelier
Located on Grande Allée E, L’Atelier is a top choice for locals and visitors alike to enjoy a bite and a beverage in the open air when temperatures finally rise in Québec City. In the afternoon patrons enjoy plenty of outdoor seating in a relaxed sidewalk bistro atmosphere, and by night this sophisticated gastropub turns into a happenin’ spot for twenty and thirty-somethings looking for a fun night out. Grande Allée E is lined with bars and restaurants, so if you wanted to hop around to a few different places, this may be a good option for you!
[WHERE TO STAY IN QUÉBEC CITY]
Auberge Saint-Antoine
I absolutely love staying at hotels with a historical background, but never did I think I would stay at a hotel with quite as much history as Auberge Saint-Antoine. This boutique hotel has so much historical significance that it’s actually home to one of the oldest archaeological sites in North America. Artifacts found from the archaeological dig have been incorporated into the hotel’s design, turning the property into a museum-hotel. By staying at the Auberge Saint-Antoine you are quite literally staying in a piece of history. The mix of old-world charm and modern-day luxuries collide to create one of the most unique and stunning hotels I’ve ever stepped foot in. To give you the full picture of my stay with Auberge Saint-Antoine, I’m going to break it down into sections for easier reading.
The History of the Auberge Saint-Antoine:
The property was once a wharf, then a canon battery, and later a merchant warehouse when Québec City was one of North America’s biggest and busiest ports. The hotel is made up of three different buildings, which were added between the 17th and 18th century.
When walking along Rue Saint-Antoine, you can actually see the markers on the ground to show where the shoreline used to be from century to century! During the construction of Auberge Saint-Antoine, when the Price family was going to turn the three buildings into a boutique hotel, they discovered over 1,000 artifacts as well as the original wall dating back to the 1700s.
The Decor & Details:
Now, these very same centuries-old artifacts are on display throughout the property for all to see. Auberge Saint-Antoine has 5 floors, and each floor is dedicated to the time period from which the artifacts were found.
Next to the elevator on each floor is a display case of these preserved items with details about the time period from which they belong. Another detail I appreciated was how they incorporated pieces found from the dig into artwork used to display room numbers.
The lobby walls are adorned with relics from the past such as dishes, vases, barber scissors, and even smoking pipes! Just down the hall from the lobby, you will come to Foyer Maillou where you’ll find a larger collection of artifacts on display ranging from the 17th to the 18th centuries.
To learn more about the history of Auberge Saint-Antoine, guests of the hotel can request an archaeological tour which will take approximately 20 minutes.
The Location:
Auberge Saint-Antoine is located at the edge of the St. Lawrence River just steps away from the marina, markets, and a plethora of art galleries and boutiques of Vieux-Port/Old Port. I love that the property is located near Old Québec, but is not located directly in it. I always like to stay a little outside of town to give myself the opportunity to get familiar with different, less touristic neighborhoods.
The Suite:
I was welcomed to my suite in the Hunt House (parts of which date back to the early 18th century) with a handwritten note and a box of cookies which couldn’t have been a warmer greeting. Upon entering the suite, I was first captivated by the fireplace in the cozy and spacious living room.
My attention then focused on the french doors opening up to my own private balcony with views of the picturesque St. Lawrence River and the marina where the cruise ships dock.
The suite was extremely spacious and featured original wood flooring, exposed wood beams, and decor from the 18th century which really gave the space a rustic yet elegant feel. The bedroom was down the hall, and had an outrageously comfortable four post bed with luxuriously soft linens, making it nearly impossible to get out of bed in the morning!
The bathroom was equipped with heated flooring and a deep-soaking tub which I absolutely made use of during my stay! Each night after a long day of exploring I would slip into my robe and slippers and draw a warm bath to relax in. Afterward, I’d crawl up on the couch next to the fire, play music from the selection of jazz left next to the Bose speaker, and make myself a cup of tea using the in-room tea kettle. Some other added amenities I enjoyed included turndown service, complimentary water, and tea daily as well as a personal Nespresso machine. In total, there are 84 unique rooms and 11 suites at Auberge Saint-Antoine and no two rooms are alike.
Chez Muffy:
If you checked out the “Where to Eat in Québec City” section, you would have noticed that I’ve already mentioned Chez Muffy. As part of the Auberge Saint-Antoine, Chez Muffy is a farm-to-table restaurant located in a restored maritime warehouse.
Built in 1822, this historic building dons natural stone walls, distressed wooden floors and exposed wooden beams that certainly feel of the time period. In fact, it’s the only maritime warehouse of its era that still remains in Québec City.
They’ve really done a stellar job at mixing the old with the new by incorporating modern touches like high-back chairs covered in bold country-chic fabrics and adding a crystal rock gas fireplace in the center of the restaurant to add a touch of warmth and elegance.
Bar Artefact:
Already noted in the “Where to Enjoy Nightlife in Quebec City” section of this blog post, Bar Artefact is quite possibly the most interesting place I’ve ever sipped a craft cocktail!
Sit back on a contemporary white shag chair with a drink in hand and admire artifacts from hundreds of years ago displayed in glass cases along the main wall.
There’s even a French canon and canon ball on display! Luxe touches like red velvet curtains and plush furniture in combination with the centuries-old relics create a unique modern-glam meets old-world atmosphere.
Behind the red velvet curtains are hidden reading nooks, complete with additional seating, cozy throw blankets, and shelves full of books.
Bottom Line:
I had an incredible stay at Auberge-Saint Antoine, and I truly believe it enhanced my overall experience in Québec City. From the exceptionally helpful staff and the luxurious accommodations to the historic beauty of this boutique hotel, I had a 5-star experience. A special shoutout to William for making me a beautiful mocktail for my photos, Jean-Baptiste for the restaurant reservation, and Dagmar & Guy for organizing such a beautiful stay during my visit!
[OTHER ACTIVITIES TO CONSIDER FOR YOUR VISIT TO QUÉBEC CITY]
I didn’t have enough time to do everything that I wanted, but the next time I visit Québec City, I will most definitely be checking out the below activities! These were all recommended to me by friends and locals, so I trust that they would be solid additions to any Québec City itinerary.
A visit to l’Ile d’Orléans
l’Ile d’Orléans is an island located on the St. Lawrence River just off of Québec City’s mainland where the majority of farming and agriculture for the province takes place. Here you can experience the countryside while touring local farms, markets, and even a winery!
Experience the First Nations Tour: I am Wendake! Wendake Endi’!
Learn about the fascinating history and ancestral culture of The Huron Wendat native people by visiting the Huron Wendat Community of Wendake. It’s an experience I am kicking myself for missing! For more information and to set up a tour, visit their website.
Take a ferry ride over to Lévis
To see the city from a whole new perspective, cross the St. Lawrence by ferry from Old Quebec over to the neighboring city of Lévis. Each way only takes 12 minutes and will cost you just under $8 CAD roundtrip. For more information including schedules, fares and more, check out this link.
I know this seems like a lot of information for a weekend visit (and it is), but the best plan of action is to just wander the beautiful streets and simply enjoy this beautiful city! As I said, a weekend really isn’t enough time to fully experience Québec City, but it will still allow you to get a feel for the flavors, sites, and sounds of North America’s oldest city! Enjoy!
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Disclaimer: I received a complimentary stay with Auberge Saint-Antoine in exchange for my opinions, but all opinions are my own. I only recommend places that I love!
Wander On,
Wanderluluu xx
7 comments
Lin
hi, may i know if you are travelling solo, then how did you take those photos of u in it? did u use a tripod stand?
Lauren Mae Pelkey
Hi Lin! Yes, that is exactly correct! For all my solo travel photography tips check out this post –> http://www.wanderluluu.com/solo-travel-photography/
B.C. Kowalski
Cool post! I’ve been especially enamored of Quebec after learning my great-grandmother grew up in Quebec City before moving to Wisconsin. They have some amazing cross-country skiing facilities in Quebec area and I am toying with a winter trip later since I have some time off around Christmas.
Did you speak French while you were there? In Japan and Mexico I spoke the language at least well enough to get by, and in Thailand I was with my friend Nino who is Thai. I like to usually try to go places where I speak the language but I know little French, not even enough to order food. (I suppose I would brush up at least a little.) What was your experience there with language?
nicolas desjardins
Wow the picture looks so beautiful! Your travel must have been a real pleasure. I might try to go to Quebec city soon enough. This guide is really well explained, I hope to see more like this on your website. Have a beautiful day!
Lauren Mae Pelkey
Hi & thank you so much for the kind words! If you go to Quebec City, please do let me know how it goes! I have lots of guides on my site so would love if you could take some time to look around 🙂 Safe travels!
Naomi
Quebec looks wonderful – I would love to visit one day. I love it anywhere they speak French and have a French-influenced culture! The nearest spot to us here in New Zealand is New Caledonia – have you been? Thank you for sharing your great pics!
Lauren Mae Pelkey
Hi Naomi – Quebec truly is marvelous! Agreed – I love the French language and French-influenced culture (and food!) too! I have not been to New Caledonia but looks like I’m adding it to my list!