After enduring a three-hour ride north of Chiang Mai complete with 700 vomit-inducing turns, you will find yourself in Pai. And at only a few hours from Thailand’s largest northern city, it’s the perfect weekend trip to see a little more of what Northern Thailand has to offer.
Pai is Chiang Mai’s earthy crunchy sister, known for its hippie-dippie backpacker culture that has gained some serious popularity over the past few years. It is also home to many natural wonders such as hot springs, caves, and canyons. But before we get into all of that, let’s first talk about that three-hour drive…
Getting There: Motion sickness prone friends beware, with over 700 turns (and not just little turns, but full circle wheel turning turns) in the last hour of the journey alone, even passengers who claimed to have never experienced motion sickness in their life were sicker than a hung-over bride-to-be post bachelorette weekend. If you’re still reading after that and still want to go to Pai, it’s extremely easy to pickup a bus ticket at any hostel or tour office in Chiang Mai. I bought a one-way ticket for under $5 (170 baht) at a hostel I stumbled upon in the Old City. It’s also easy to purchase a bus ticket back to Chiang Mai at any hostel or tour office in Pai.
Where to Stay: If you’re looking to embrace the whole hippie vibe of Pai, I’d highly recommend staying at Pai Circus Hostel. It’s basically a little hippie village where travelers come to practice yoga, learn how to juggle fire-blazing sticks, and forget all of their real-world worries. There’s an actual bucket of circus items in the common area for visitors to practice with. I tried my hand at the Diablo and spinning a frisbee on a stick, but steered clear of the tight rope. There’s also a gorgeous infinity pool overlooking the serene surrounding landscape. Accommodation here is very bare bones, made up mostly of bamboo huts that act as shared rooms or private rooms, each bed complete with a mosquito net, and a few very basic bathrooms dispersed around the property. Room prices range from $7-$13, but you’re not paying for the facilities; you’re paying for the overall experience that this place offers. If this place happens to be booked out, I heard from some other travelers that Spicy Pai Backpackers has a similar vibe, sans circus school and performances
My time in Pai and list of things I wanted to do and see was cut short by a scooter accident that put me in the hospital (just scrapes and bruises, nothing too bad!) so I didn’t get the full experience, but here are a few of the places I went and things I did that I think you’d enjoy too.
Sai Ngam Hotsprings: Situated up in the hills of Pai about 30 minutes north of the main town, a naturally heated hot spring set in the forest welcomes travelers to sit back, relax, and unwind. It’s pretty small, but big enough to accommodate a few groups of travelers to enjoy simultaneously. Thailand has certainly taken advantage of the new surge of tourists, charging 20 baht per bike and 20 baht per passenger wanting to visit any of these natural sites. Also, TRAVEL CAREFULLY. It often rains during the mornings in Pai making the road extremely slick. Slick conditions and steep roads make for a dangerous scooter ride –be careful! I saw so many other travelers in the hospital getting treated for scooter accidents!
Thien Art Space: After checking out the main quaint little town of Pai, a traveler friend and I started to wander off the path in search of a bar we had heard about from other travelers. On our way, we stumbled up Thien Art Space (Art Gallery, Food & Drink), which called my name and I had to stop in. We didn’t stop for anything to drink or eat, but the friendly staff let us have a look and gawk over the stunning décor. We did come back the next day for breakfast and tea, which was good but not authentic or anything special. I would recommend coming by for a morning tea or coffee to write in your journal and relax. On our way out, we spotted a litter of newborn puppies that the employees of the restaurant had given a safe place for the momma to nurse her young. This was clearly a stray dog and her pups, but the employees had put out water blankets and scraps of food, which just warmed my heart.
On our way to sunset bar we stumbled upon a vacant bar (couldn’t’ find anyone who worked there) with hammocks and interesting décor where we picked up 3 more travelers and walked down a street lined with farms until we finally made it to Sunset Bar.
Sunset Bar: Think of the most hidden bar surrounded by jungle, with bamboo open-air platforms scattered about, with shirtless, Thai hippie-men (with hair much longer than mine) blending up magic mushroom shakes and you’ve got Sunset Bar. Thai mats are scattered on each of the bamboo platforms giving visitors a chance to lay back and enjoy the enchanting surroundings. Backpacker friendly does not begin to describe this place, as by the end of our 4 hour stay, our group had quadrupled in size. If you’re looking to meet other travelers, I’d suggest going here!
Besides the crash and hospital visit, I very much enjoyed my time in Pai. Although a short visit, the slow pace of life and fresh mountain air is enough to reset and refresh any weary traveler. Below is a list of things I wanted to see while in Pai, but was unable to after the accident. If you have time, try to fit them in and let me know how it was!
Wander On,
Wanderluluu xx
