I was under the impression that Cartagena was lined with gorgeous white sand beaches and crystal clear turquoise water – it’s not. However, just an hour boat ride away is the paradise of Isla Grande, which is part of the Rosario Islands. Here you will surely find that Caribbean paradise you were searching for. Although the main activity while on this island is simply to relax, there are plenty of fun activities to partake in and plenty of things to see. In this post, I will give you the best suggestions on what to do, where to stay, and how you can get to Isla Grande for the perfect weekend getaway from Cartagena!

What to Do in Isla Grande

Go on a snorkeling adventure

I find it hard to resist a snorkeling trip when you’re in a tropical paradise surrounded by coral reef. The activities desk at Paraiso Secreto offers a 2-hour snorkeling trip with a local guide for 30,000 COP ($10USD). Our guide came to pick us up right from the beach at Paraiso Secreto in his small wooden fishing boat and gave us each a snorkeling mask. We stopped at two different spots, both full of exciting and interesting underwater goodies.

The first snorkeling stop was at a coral reef quite a ways off of the shore, teeming with sea life, including a trumpetfish, sea snake, massive schools of fish, as well as some colorful coral. Our next stop was at an underwater plane wreck, right off of the shore where Pablo Escobar’s vacation mansion still stands (barely).

Not only was the plane wreck pretty eery, but so was as Pablo’s abandoned estate crumbling along the coast. Although the snorkeling was really nice, I really just enjoyed taking a little cruise around the island.  

Spend the day relaxing on Playa Libre

Across the island from Paraiso Secreto you will come to another beautiful beach with turquoise waters and soft white sand. The walk is about 30 minutes but is a nice change of pace from the other side of the island.

Playa Libre is more accessible than others beaches along the southern part of Isla Grande, so you’ll see more people here, but it will still be pretty quiet.

We were approached to buy some things from beach vendors, but other than that it was quite peaceful. We even made friends with some local kids who thought it would be fun to bury us in the sand!

Take a late night walk to the Enchanted Lagoon

There is a bioluminescent lagoon full of phytoplankton creating the illusion of a glowing lagoon located on the island that must be visited! Unfortunately, we were visiting Isla Grande during the full moon, so we couldn’t see much (as there was too much light), but when we mixed up the water we could see some green glowing bits. When the moon is just a sliver, it is said to be absolutely mesmerizing! It’s possible to walk here without a guide, but I highly recommend going in a group. There aren’t any signs along the route, and it’s very easy to get lost! You’ll also be making this walk in the middle of the night, so it is definitely not safe to go alone. We received a hand-drawn map from one of the very friendly hostel managers at Paraiso Secreto, and it was drawn to perfect accuracy. However, if you’re not willing to risk it, the hostel offers guided tours for 20,000 COP.

Enjoy a Bonfire on the beach at Paraiso Secreto

I loved my stay at My Casa Nativa  (part of the Paraiso Secreto hostel complex, which I will get into detail about later) for many reasons, but I really loved the beach bonfires they put on each night. Around dusk, they get a bonfire going, which is also perfect timing to watch the sun disappear behind the horizon. I’m not sure if this happens often, but they even had a DJ and speakers set up on the beach! We had a blast dancing barefoot in the sand, without a single care in the world.

Meander through the island’s main village

This island is mainly inhabited by local people who have spent their whole lives on this island. There are very few “resorts” and for this reason, the island is very underdeveloped and has a very authentic feel to it.

Head into town for groceries and fresh fruit from local vendors, and to get an idea of the local culture. Be aware that people will offer to guide you to where you’re trying to go (the island is very difficult to navigate with absolutely no signage and mostly dirt paths) but will most likely ask for a tip.

We got suckered into this trick, as we thought a friendly local was simply helping us get to a nice beach, but in the end, he demanded a tip. He did show us to a really nice beach, so I didn’t mind complying! He also pointed out some massive iguanas up in the trees during our walk to the beach.

Later that day another man and his son offered to guide us back to our hostel, but they just wanted to practice English! It’s not a true visit to the island unless you walk through the main village to really get a feel for everyday life on Isla Grande.

Watch the sunset from La Pola Restaurante

For a nice, locally made dinner and a perfect place to watch the sunset, head to La Pola Restaurante. It’s about a 10-15 minute walk from Paraiso Secreto, and is located right on the edge of the ocean with outdoor seating. They serve freshly caught seafood and typical Caribbean/Colombian sides like rice, beans, and salad.

They only have a few options and they differ day to day depending on what the fisherman brings back for them. This restaurant is run right out of Pola’s home, so if you’re looking for the restroom, you actually go inside of her house! The food was really good and fairly priced.

Get some R&R at Playa de Paraiso Secreto

If you want complete seclusion, spend the day at Paraiso Secreto’s own private beach! Here, you won’t find a single vendor trying to sell you anything, just peace and quiet. This beach is bordered by mangroves, so the only way to get to it is from a boat or from a path from the center of the island.

Only people staying at the hostels of Paraiso Secreto seemed to hang out here. There are multiple hammocks, chairs, and even a homemade driftwood swing to relax on. Grab some beers from the bar and relax on your own private beach.

Where to Stay in Isla Grande

My Casa Nativa

***EDIT 07.11.18: My Casa Nativa has since closed down, but other hostels at Paraiso Secreto are still taking reservations! You can book using this link:

To turn off from the rest of the world and relax in a relatively untouched slice of paradise, make sure to book a room with My Casa Nativa (you can now use the link for Paraiso Secreto.) It’s actually part of a hostel community called Paraiso Secreto, which is a complex of 7 very colorful hostels on Isla Grande that are all unique from each other.

The 7 hostels on this property all share a bar, restaurant, pools, activities desk, and the secluded, private beach that I just mentioned.

I especially loved My Casa Nativa for the warm and chilled out staff, and for the private rooms that they offer. Emir was such a lovely host and made sure we had everything we needed for a comfortable stay. Our room was a private queen room with shutter style windows, complete with a mosquito net to protect us from all of the creatures.

This is an eco-hostel, so be prepared to come face to face with lots of bugs. They keep the windows and doors open 24/7 as to go with the laid-back, island atmosphere, so it’s perfect for anyone wanting to get in touch with nature! At the same time, it’s not for everyone.

Be warned that there is no power for most of the day, and although they offer wifi when the power is turned back on, it’s a very weak signal – but why do you need electricity or wifi when you’re in paradise? Dorm rooms start at $20USD per night, with privates ranging from $60-$70USD.

How to Get to Isla Grande

By speedboat (lancha rapida)

I would recommend getting to El Muelle La Bodeguita (the main dock near the Old City) early in the morning in order to grab a ticket over to Isla Grande. (Boats depart from 8-10am.) This is where most boats will be leaving to head to the many different Islands off of Cartagena. You can jump on a speedboat for 40,000 COP plus an additional 15,000 COP for port fees, totaling 55,000 COP ($18USD). Be sure to tell the captain that you are heading to Paraiso Secreto on Isla Grande, and they will most likely drop you off directly on the private beach!

Also, beware that the 1-hour ride to Isla Grande is not the most comfortable ride. This is a small speedboat with wooden bench seating that rips through choppy ocean waves. If you have any sort of back problems, this may be a bit of a painful ride for you! (Think rollercoaster-catching-air type ride.) Another thing to keep in mind is that the last public boat to Isla Grande leaves Cartagena at 10:00 am.

We learned the hard way and just assumed we could catch a boat over to Isla Grande whenever we wanted. If you do want to go anytime after 10:30 am, you can hire a private boat, but it’s going to cost you! I believe we were quoted at around $50USD per person…as you can imagine, we waited until the following day. You can book your boat ride back to Cartagena from Isla Grande through the reception at Paraiso Secreto for 50,000 COP, just make sure to book a day in advance to make sure you get a seat. The boat from Isla Grande back to Cartagena leaves at 2:30 pm from Paraiso Secreto. That’s the one and only time that boat departs from Paraiso Secreto! I learned that there is a different boat leaving from the main port to Cartagena at 6:30 am, but heard this was not extremely reliable, as you can’t make reservations in advance. Again, you can hire a private boat, but it’ll cost you, so make sure to secure your spot on the boat.

Heading back to Cartagena? Check out 11 awesome things you can do in Cartagena to make your trip to the Colombian coast one to remember!

Disclaimer: I received a complimentary stay at My Casa Nativa for my opinions, but all opinions are my own. I only recommend places I would stay myself!

Wander On,

Wanderluluu xx